Squirrel stew is a quintessential product of the "make good of what nature gave you" ethos behind wild game hunting, and by the 19th century, it was being featured in regional cookbooks in the South.

“I love the sweet aroma of squirrel, and I’m surprised at most folks’ inexperience with serving the little guys,” says chef Levon Wallace, who heads up the kitchen at Proof on Main in Louisville, Ky.